<VV> 64 engine dies Resolution

[FrankDuVal]

OK, here is my theory, and I almost posted this earlier when the jumper 
wire was mentioned.

When the circuit supplying +12 volts to the front of the car (dash area) 
went bad, the current using the jumper wire to the + coil terminal was 
now supplying power to the dash area, and that current was flowing 
through the resistor wire. Now, if the resistor wire was getting hot 
with no jumper wire, I do not see in the '64 wiring diagram where that 
might backfeed power from the coil and cause a hot resistor. Maybe I 
will look at the diagram again in the light of day....

Frank DuVal


On 6/20/2018 3:48 PM, Smitty via VirtualVairs wrote:
>
> Smitty Says;  It is great to be able to question a large group of 
> people and get answers that may shed light on a problem.
> I have been guilty of making this mistake so I can't complain too 
> loudly but I sure wish when answer time comes that the people wanting 
> answers had read the initial quest for help.  In my initial 
> description of the problem I said the ballast resistor got hot enough 
> to fry chicken on.  It now merely gets warm.  It was an error that I 
> didn't say how the wires through the tunnel were read out.  An Ohm 
> meter was the tool of choice.  Not a volt meter.  The readings were 
> good when the circuit was cold.     In another post I was advised on 
> Ohms law and I laughed.  I learned ohms law from my dad maybe 75 years 
> ago when I was building Chrystal sets.  In any event, thanks for all 
> the good and helpful inputs.
>
> From: Hugo Miller <hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk>
> Was it overheating? They are meant to get hot, aren't they? This also
> illustrates the hazard of checking power supply with a voltmeter, as I
> said previously; you don't say as much, but I reckon you would still
> have got 12 volts at the meter with no lead on the dirty connection -
> only when it has to pass enough current to power the coil (or a test
> lamp) will the voltage drop become apparent.
>