<VV> Speaking of sway bars.......
hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Sat Nov 30 12:18:56 EST 2019
I have said this before, and nobody has yet disagreed with me, but I
think this is the wrong approach. Yes, it will shut the noise up, but it
won't fix the problem, which is that the metal is turning in the rubber.
It is all supposed to be clamped solid, and the rubber itself will move.
If the bar moves against the rubber, it will wear down exactly as you
have described! It is always the harder material that wears (such as a
camshaft in an aluminium head) because the softer material "absorbs' the
I think Polybushes work on a different principle, and they DO need
On 2019-11-30 11:18, edward szuch via VirtualVairs wrote:
> As you know, there are three points that support the sway bar on each
> side. I think you may have to bite the bullet and take the bar down
> lube the two points on each side that actually support the bar in
> I have used silicone grease with good success and grease the bar and
> with a light coating before reassembly. I'm not familiar the Black
> but it may do the same thing. You have to get the grease in the
> joint as
> the bar rotates slightly during driving in these clamped joints.
> I don't think the rubber bushing at the frame rail connection can be
> lubricated. It has a simple cross bolt as I recall so you can grease
> but it goes through a steel sleeve. I doubt that is the source of
> noise but with the other work you're doing, you may as well grease
> what you
> Silicone grease is used as a brake component lubricant and is quite
> viscous. It's safe for rubber and seems to last a long time. You
> be able to find it at your local auto parts store.
> Of note on my '66 when I replaced my original bushings a few years
> the sway bar was worn down nearly 1/8" in diameter from the fine dirt
> particles that had found their way in the joint. There was never any
> but interesting in the amount of wear.
> Good luck!
> Gary Szuch
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