<VV> Can It Really Be That Simple

[Ron]

I've always heard that you set dwell first, and then the timing as 
adjustments to dwell will change the timing.
RonH

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank DuVal" <corvairduval at cox.net>
To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Can It Really Be That Simple


> Yes, it is that easy. Bench bleed by screwing a hose into the outlet
> port and putting the other end into the reservoir. Some master cyliner
> replacements come with the hose and plastic adapter. Of course these
> single cylinders are easy to rebuild with a kit also. Unless the bore is
> really pitted. You won't know until you take it apart and hone it out.
> You can also cut a section of brake line long enough to screw into the
> cylinder outlet and bend it into the reservoir. Keep the reservoir
> filled and stroke it with both a series of short and deep strokes until
> no bubbles come out of the hose (tube). Place it back on the car gently
> (with the hose still in place so fluid does not leak out), remove the
> hose and quickly screw the brake line into the outlet. Crack the line
> nut while someone pushes gently on the brake pedal (catching most of the
> fluid in a rag and cleaning up any spills right away-eats paint),
> tighten the line nut while the foot is still on the pedal and that
> should be all for bleeding the brakes.
>
> Of course, now is the time to flush the system anyway, as it probably
> has been years since the fluid was changed, so go through a normal bleed
> procedure to flush the system. Dot 3 needs to be changed every few years
> due to moisture absorbtion.
>
> And (boy, this is never ending) do a "Hard harder" test of the brake
> system to make sure there are no steel lines ready to fail.
> Step on the brake pedal and then step harder, using the steering wheel
> for leverage if necessary. This sounds destructive, but if the system is
> sound, nothing will happen. Don't be surprised if a line or more blows
> out due to rust. This is a normal tech inspection for a Corvair
> autocross. Much easire to replce a line in the driveway than after the
> thrilling ride though a red light or decending a hill.
>
> Make sure the timing is correct to get the most power out of the engine.
> And all those other tune up things also, just check timing first-easy.
>
> Frank DuVal
>
> Jeffrey B. Aronson wrote:
>
>>An island neighbor just bought her first classic car, a '63 Monza
>>convertible PG, 53,000 miles, power top, new red interior, door guards,
>>AM pushbutton radio, dealer installed emergency brake light - the works!
>>
>>Of course, as a car that basically sat for years, the new fan belt
>>slipped off within the first two days of driving and I got the "help!"
>>call. My reward was a 10 mile round the island drive of the car, top
>>down. It drove quite well, although I heard more clatter than I expected
>>[perhaps more sitting too long issues] and less power than I expected [I
>>have a '66 110/4 speed].
>>
>>The only concern was the braking system. Pressing the pedal slowed the
>>car, but if you held your foot on it, the pedal would slowly sink
>>towards the floor. After the drive, there was no fluid loss in the
>>cylinder, and the brakes never grabbed to one side, so I'm assuming
>>there's an internal leak in the master cylinder.
>>
>>Does this make sense? Any other possibilities?
>>
>>If it is the master cylinder, replacing it looks like a cinch - two nuts
>>hold it to the firewall and the brake line screws into the side near the
>>bottom. Is it really that easy to replace? What's the best way to bench
>>bleed it?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Jeff Aronson
>>Vinalhaven, ME 04863
>>
>>'66 Monza Coupe 110/4 speed
>>'66 Land Rover Series II-A 88" [2]
>>'80 Triumph TR-7
>>
>>
>>
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