<VV> Wiring harness replacement

[Harry Yarnell]

I MAY be wrong, but I thought that if you turn the connector 90°, it'll fit 
thru the body (firewall) hole.

Harry Yarnell
Perryman garage and orphanage
Perryman, MD
hyarnell1 at earthlink.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Crawford Rose" <crawfordrose at msn.com>
To: "Bruce Schug" <bwschug at charter.net>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Wiring harness replacement


> snip
>
>>
>> I've never done this but wonder, what is so hard about replacing the 
>> main
>> harness?
>>
>> Bruce
>
> Bruce, if you do not remove the rear cross member which supports the drive
> train, the harness connectors do not fit through the gaps in the body. As 
> a
> result, it is necessary to remove the plastic connectors and tape them up 
> to
> avoid damage to them [and take pictures/document the wiring order!!!] and
> thread them through the suspension like eying a needle. I have had some
> success taping the new harness to the old harness to "pull it through" but
> still, it is nasty, on your back, crawling along under the car work not
> suited for most people. The harness is retained by clips along the
> "firewall" of the car that also retain the brake lines and may break if 
> not
> handled carefully. The harness has to be carefully installed in the three
> clips, one of which is directly above the brake junction tee bolted to the
> frame. Of course, if you have the drive train and rear crossmember 
> removed,
> it is fairly easy but still not for novices - i.e., how many of us remove
> drive trains from cars? [and maybe successfully put them back in?]. Then
> it's on toward the front of the car...
> Crawford
>
>
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