<VV> wrinkle finishes from my long lost past...

[N2VZD at aol.com]

i have never done any LATE model stuff. most of anything i have painted is  
flat.
one thing , this type paint likes heat!  warm parts will be a better  
finish. put the parts in the sun or next to the wood stove.also read the  
instructions carfully. the first coat wants to set at least 15 minutes before  
second coat. then walk away from it for a few hours. then do not touch it for a  
day or more , it will take that long to HARDen up. after that it becomes  
very tough. if you touch it to soon , it will "move".
i have done some very beat up spyder dashes, glove boxes , ash trays (FC)  
with it for my cars and they look great. this was on parts that were  beyond 
hope of cleaning up. the air cleaners on my truck , valve covers (rusty  
junk)  and a few other parts look good (well  , lots better than  pitted , 
rusty stufff )  on my driver / fun stuff.
masking, if needed  has to be done with darn good tape. i used some  smooth 
stuff i found at a dollar store. if it leaks , wait a few DAYS , then go  
after it with a razor blade or scalpel. i buy disposable scalpels for things  
like this , and modeling planes.
i have the body of a geezer , but still think too young!
regards, tim colson
 
In a message dated 8/17/2010 6:18:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
vairguy at echoes.net writes:

While on  the wrinkle paint topic, is there some kind of creative trick for 
making  the silver parts silver?  Masking around curves is not much fun and 
I  
figure in your vast experience some of you *cough geezers cough* might  
have 
found a better way.


 
 
In a message dated 8/17/2010 6:18:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
vairguy at echoes.net writes:

While on  the wrinkle paint topic, is there some kind of creative trick for 
making  the silver parts silver?  Masking around curves is not much fun and 
I  
figure in your vast experience some of you *cough geezers cough* might  
have 
found a better  way.