<VV> Diagnosing / fixing loose steering on 1967 Monza--adjustment

[HallGrenn at aol.com]

In a message dated 8/21/2010 9:26:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Chaz at ProperProper.com writes:

I did notice  wet oil on lower end of steering box shaft though, which is 
not
good, I'm  thinking ?

The steering arm from box looks wet, and has fresh oil on  end of its shaft 
 :
www.yourbuyersinn.com/Cars/Corvair/CorvairSteeringBox256k.wmv

Thanks
Charlie



Charlie,
 
If the box hasn't been butchered by careless adjustment of just the top  
adjustment (under the plug in the trunk) then you should be able to improve it 
 some at least by adjusting it as intended by the manual.  Doing it is  
tedious, but necessary.  "Correct  adjustment of the steering gear is very 
important.  Only two adjustments  are possible but they must be made in the 
following manner, step by step, in the  order given."--Steering page 9-2 in the 
manual.  There is a high spot on the groove of the worm shaft that is  
attached to the steering column.  It is necessary because most wear is "on  
center" so you want as little play as possible when the steering wheel is  
centered on the highway.  If you think the box is loose now "on center"  just try 
it one turn in either direction.  It is normal for a steering box  to have 
much more play off dead center--it is designed that way.
 
You must adjust the shaft when the worm is centered so that the adjustment  
will be only in that high spot.  Many boxes have been further damaged or  
ruined by having only the top adjustment tightened when the worm shaft was 
not  centered--so the adjustment is done to one side or the other of the high 
spot  causing accelerated wear when the shaft passes this point and binds.  
You  can feel this when passing the center point on some poorly adjusted 
boxes.
 
Pull the steering arm (Pitman arm) from the box first, then using a large  
wrench (1 7/8" if I remember correctly) adjust the worm adjustment big nut 
on  the front of the steering box under the car so you get the proper torque 
reading  of 3.5 to 4.5 inch pounds of torque at the nut under the horn 
button on the  steering wheel.  If the steering worm doesn't turn smoothly and 
binds at  times (the manual says "feels lumpy") then you probably have damaged 
bearings, a  damaged Pitman shaft bushing or other damage and should 
rebuild or replace  the box with a good one.  Once this preload is correct then 
you can go  to the lash adjuster accessible in the trunk.
 
To adjust the lash through the trunk access hole the steering shaft (worm  
shaft), and not necessarily the steering wheel, must be centered.  Many  
cars have tie rod adjustments that don't center the steering shaft and  
steering wheels are frequently pulled and reattached off center so you can't be  
sure the worm/steering shaft is centered unless you count the turns 
lock-to-lock  and divide by one half to properly center the wheel (but remember the 
Pitman arm  is not attached now and be very careful not to allow the steering 
wheel to bump  to a stop when counting the turns or you can damage the worm 
ball bearing  cages).  There was a small notch or indentation on the head of 
the shaft,  probably for use during assembly, to center the steering wheel, 
but usually a  steering wheel puller has obliterated it sometime in the 
past.   On badly worn boxes you may be able to feel the high point/center by 
adjusting  the lash adjuster a bit tight and then by slowly turning the wheel 
to feel  the center high spot bind you can be sure you've found it--then 
back off the  adjuster, center the shaft and do the final tightening   When 
properly  adjusted the torque to turn the steering shaft (at the steering wheel 
nut)  "should be between 8 and 10 inch pounds in excess of the worm bearing 
preload,  but not more than a total of 14 inch pounds."  After tightening 
the lock  nut on the lash adjuster recheck the torque reading to be sure it 
hasn't  changed.
 
Section 9 of the Chassis Shop Manual has the complete details of  course.
 
Remount the Pitman arm, install the horn button and drive the car--the  
steering box is now adjusted properly.  If the steering wheel isn't  centered 
and/or the car doesn't drive straight then it is time to have the tie  rods 
adjusted to center the steering wheel.  Don't let anyone tell you that  you 
can center the steering by pulling the steering wheel and reattaching it  
again "centered" (as two Chevy dealer mechanics have told me)because it just  
ain't so.
 
Hope you can resurrect your steering box.
 
Bob Hall
Group Corvair
Corvanatics
CORSA