<VV> Weak brake action

[Charles McKinley]

Revisiting this month-old query, I have a much simpler question. I've  
replaced everything and gone to a dual-pot master cylinder, but am  
temporarily stymied trying to finesse the left rear wheel brake line  
into position. No problem with the right rear as it's short and  
direct, but the left one (from Clark's) is much longer and has several  
sharpish kinks. I'm following up on  a suggestion that you don't  
really need to drop the engine & trans to do this job. The old brake  
line appeared to be copper and was pretty flexible, and didn't have  
the sharp kinks similar to the Clark's steel replacement, more like  
smooth bends. I would appreciate any suggestions about how to approach  
this job. For what it's worth, I have the supplies and tools to  
fabricate a replacement brake line from scratch if that's a viable  
approach, but I'd very much like to use the Clark's prefab, since I  
paid for it.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck


On Dec 4, 2009, at 11:58 AM, Charles McKinley wrote:

> I'm a little embarrassed about asking this, as it seems like a  
> moronic question, but I'm at a loss as to where to go next. I've had  
> a '63 Monza 900 for about 16 years now, and in all that time, the  
> braking action is what I'd call puny - maybe I've gotten used to the  
> power brakes in every other car I've owned for 40+ years, but it  
> really doesn't feel right. The symptoms are that when I apply the  
> brakes, they do work, but I have to apply more pressure than I think  
> should be necessary, and there's no such thing as a panic stop - I  
> can't jam on the brakes and screech to a halt (that's the most  
> worrisome part.)
>
> Recently I've done the following in an attempt to fix this:
>
> - had all drums turned
> - put in all new brake shoes
> - put in all new wheel cylinders
> - put in new brake line hoses
> - installed new return springs
>
> Long ago I rebuilt the master cylinder.
>
> The brake pedal is very solid - no fading, solid stop with minimal  
> depression
>
> I have a complete set of new brake lines, but when I learned you  
> have to drop the motor and remove the gas tank to install them, I  
> decided to hold off until I have a more compelling reason to do  
> either of those chores.
>
> I've bled the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders until I'm blue  
> in the face, with no improvement.
>
> The only items left in question (that I can think of) are:
> - master cylinder problem of some sort (can't think what)
> - old brake lines being a little plugged (although I get plenty of  
> flow when bleeding the wheel cylinders)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck McKinley