<VV> Overcooling (was: LM turbos and no lower shrouds)

[jvhroberts at aol.com]

 Define operating temperature, and how did you measure it? 

This is where I get the most grief, trying to get accurate data! When I was debugging the cooling on my Mazda 13B powered boat, I got all kinds of 'advise' from others who tried, like, they couldn't get an oil cooler that worked very well, etc.. Adding a decent instrument helps a lot. I bought a Fluke two channel digital thermometer and a pair of Type K thermocouples, and that answered a LOT of questions. Meaning, often, factory gages aren't worth SQUAT! Turned out my oil cooler setup worked fine, and a couple of guys who duplicated said it never worked right AT ALL, until I lent them this thing, and gee, it's amazing what you learn when you measure stuff accurately! 

So, I ask, how do you know it was overcooled? 

 

John Roberts
 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Vairtec Corporation <Vairtec at optonline.net>
To: virtualvairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tue, Oct 25, 2011 10:55 am
Subject: Re: <VV> Overcooling (was: LM turbos and no lower shrouds)


jvhroberts at aol.com wrote:

> In my experience, overcooling a Corvair engine is just about impossible. And 
yes, mine had all the seals in place around the engine, etc.

Well, there's your problem!  [ Grin ! ]

Back in my misspent youth I once created a Corvair engine that 
overcooled.  I took too many things off!  It was a stock 1965 140, fully 
deflashed, with not only the lower shrouds removed, but also the front 
shrouds (the ones to which the lower heater hoses attach) trimmed to 
just the innermost piece, and the rear ducts (the door assemblies) also 
trimmed to just the innermost part.  (These innermost pieces extend down 
to the midpoint on the cylinder barrels and heads.)

Street-driven that engine NEVER reached operating temperature.  Full 
front shrouds and rear ducts went back on it in relatively short order.



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